Painted Face: A Cultural Journey Through Papua New Guinea's Diverse Provinces

Originating from the Asoro tribe of Western Highlands Province, the Asoro mud men have a fascinating history. After their defeat by a rival tribe, they sought refuge in the Asaro River, where they encountered a mysterious figure who bestowed upon them the power to instill fear with their gaze. Taking advantage of dusk's cover, they attempted to flee, but one member was captured. Emerging from the river's mud-covered banks, the captive appeared spectral, causing the enemy to flee in terror, as many tribes in Papua New Guinea harbor a fear of spirits. Mistaken for supernatural beings, the enemy tribesmen rushed back to their village and conducted rituals to ward off the perceived threat. Unable to hide their faces due to the belief in the toxicity of Asaro River mud, the mud men ingeniously crafted masks from heated pebbles and waterfall water. Today, during special occasions and ceremonies, they reenact this historic event that defined their tribe's lore.

The Tolai people of East New Britain province have several kinds of secret societies of which the dukduk or tubuan is best known. Each of the dukduk societies was centred around a named female mask, the tubuan, which was owned by one particular individual. At intervals the tubuan was said to give birth to one or more male masks, the dukduk. With the birth of the dukduk a festive season began. New members were initiated into the society at its secret meeting place, the tarain. 

Dancers, wearing the conical tubuan and dukduk masks, their bodies hidden by cloaks of leaves, made public appearances. After two to six weeks the dukduk died; only the tubuan remained, to bear new dukduk when the time has come.

The Engan women from Kondale village in Enga province also known as Suli Muli, wear giant hats made hair, moss and plant fibres. During special occasions and ceremonies they come out with their male counterparts to sing and dance in their traditional costumes. This ‘dance’, which involves jumping up and down, beating their kundu drums, and singing “suli muli”, has become synonymous with ‘Engan‘ as a tribal identifier.